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Jil Sander: Fashion’s First Feminist
il Sander is fresh-faced and smiling as a brisk wind blows through the garden of the museum in Frankfurt am Main. No matter that the image of the German designer who defined female fashion over four decades is seen through a series of photographs. Nor that her home city is Hamburg, where she still has a studio, even after her stop-go presence at her brand came to a halt in 2013.
This intense, pretty, exceptionally driven woman, who has worked all her life – she founded her business at age 24 in 1968 – is a purist and perfectionist. This is confirmed by the personal vision that underlines “Present Tense”, the exhibition of her life and work at the Museum Angewandten Kunst, where curator Matthias Wagner K has worked with her to make something intensely powerful out of spare simplicity.
From the digital films to the specially made clothes, all in the same material, and the passionate romance of the garden to the airy modernism of her recreated Paris store, this exhibition is designed to get to the heart of the matter.
Jil Sander can best be described as fashion’s first feminist. Whatever merit might be given to Coco Chanel in the 1930s or Yves Saint Laurent’s launch of the female trouser suit in the 1960s, Jil has the strongest claim for empowering women through what they wear.
Nadja Swarovski on Empowering Women, the Industry at the Fashion Awards
This year’s Fashion Awards ceremony puts the spotlight on female creatives, from Stella McCartney, to Donatella Versace, Pat McGrath and Maria Grazia Chiuri — but that wasn’t part of a grand plan.
“We are awarding really amazing people — and they happen to be women,” said Nadja Swarovski, a member of the Swarovskiexecutive board who has been working alongside the British Fashion Council on the annual ceremony for eight years. “We are not discriminatory at all.”
The Swarovski Award for Positive Change, an accolade introduced last year that recognizes industry professionals who contribute to sustainability and culture, was given to Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri in honor of what she has achieved since taking the helm as the house’s first female artistic director.
“She has a really strong point of view, great associations with craft and the way she has expressed herself in the arena of feminism,” said Swarovski, adding that it is important to celebrate these women as role models at a time “when our governments cannot be a role model for us.”
Swarovski said she believes the Fashion Awards coincide with a moment of female empowerment.
“Women are speaking up, and that is why we chose Bianca Jagger to give the award to Maria Grazia. Bianca is a style icon, she has such a strong voice in the area of female empowerment, and she’s a humanitarian, so we are connecting the dots. I can only tell you that Bianca is very excited about what is happening, because sometimes in the past, she used to be that lonely voice out there. Because of recent events, more women will speak up and more women’s voices will be heard. That has also lead a lot of us mothers to raise our daughters differently and to raise them with self-confidence.”
Sexism Is Rampant for Female Fashion Photographers
orking in fashion has required Kristiina Wilson to develop a thick skin. She’s faced criticism because of her age, her weight, and even her sense of style, she says. The twist is that Wilson doesn’t work in front of the camera, but behind it. A fashion photographer for more than a decade, she says that sexism in the industry leads to women being judged for how they look, landing fewer jobs, and earning less money than men for the same work. As the fashion world reflects on sexual misconduct in the wake of the Harvey Weinstein controversy, female photographers in the field see a connection between sexual harassment and the systemic sexism they routinely encounter.
Gender bias in photography may not garner much attention outside of industry circles, but female photographers say the discrimination they face working in the mostly male profession is, at times, blatant.
Wilson says that she’s been told outright that some clients simply prefer men. She recalls a PR agency telling her, “The client really loved your work, but they’re just not comfortable with a woman photographer. It’s a technical job, and they feel more comfortable with a man doing it.”
This wasn’t the only time Wilson says she’s been turned down for work because she’s a woman.
“I had another client for lingerie or bathing suits who didn’t feel like a female photographer would work because they thought the photographer needed to be flirting, to have a sexual energy, with the model.”
It’s time to talk fashion
Mittal had rescued the fashion brand in 2009 from bankruptcy, and within five years turned its fortune. And we hear that the Chief Guest for the summit, Ivanka Trump, is a fan of Escada.
Megha Mittal, Anita Dongre among others are participating in The Global Entrepreneurship Summit, the theme of which is ‘Women First, Prosperity for All’. The summit is bringing fashion entrepreneurs from across the world to Hyderabad.
Besides sharing their journey as women entrepreneurs, topics such as the retail industry, the importance of creating an impact on others’ lives will be discussed.
Megha Mittal, the Managing Director of the German fashion luxury brand Escada, headquartered in Munich, and the daughter-in-law of Lakshmi Mittal, is one of the speakers. Ms Mittal had rescued the fashion brand in 2009 from bankruptcy, and within five years turned its fortune. And we hear that the Chief Guest for the summit, Ivanka Trump, is a fan of Escada.
7 Fashion Trends to Be Thankful for This Year
This is shaping up to be a pretty bad year for pretty much everything. In these dark times, take a bit of solace in the fact that the fashion world is offering some surprisingly lovely trends. From enormous, colorful dresses to actually comfortable shoes, the once elitist, stilettos-only world of high style is becoming more egalitarian, and more accessible, than ever before. And in this new, democratized world of style the biggest rule is that there are no rules. You can wear a princess gown with sneakers! A bath robe to an evening event! Even slippers to the office! Your gym clothes are now your work clothes and your party outfits are your weekday pick-me-ups. Everything’s topsy turvy and that’s not all that bad.
So, for those looking for something to be thankful for this Thanksgiving, we present 8 of-the-moment trends that will make our lives easier—and chicer—for the rest of 2017 and beyond.Fangirl culture is no longer the stuff of reddit forums and is now something that’s celebrated out in the open. Love Stranger Things? Wear it on a Louis Vuitton t-shirt! Can’t stop thinking about Blade Runner? Neither can Raf Simons! Desperately into German techno? Channel Demna Gvasalia at the CFDA Awards in the Rammstein tee or head to Idea Books and buy a shirt that simply reads TECHNO. Wearing your obsessions—no matter how niche, how weird, how secret—on your sleeve is not only acceptable, but it’s celebrated. Meaning there’s never been a better time to be yourself.
Interview with fashion designer Mweene Kalipinde
Mweene Kalipinde is a 30 something year old Fashion designer, wife and mother of two handsome boys. Her love for design started at a very early age. “Growing up I had always been small hence I couldn’t fit in clothes made for my age they were always big, so i would alter them so they fit which always landed me in trouble with my mum but I always loved the results I got.”
Following advice from her mother, Mweene enrolled in a short tailoring course at Regent college, after completing her secondary school. She enjoyed it so much that she ended up doing a 2-year course. “In 2006 I joined Bulos as an intern, I worked with Betty chilonde (Fashion designer, creative designer at Bulos Pieces) for 2 years and later on in 2009 I started working on my own and Mweene fashion house was established, I only took it seriously as a career in 2010.”
Mweene Kalipinde: Locally my favourite designers are my mentor Betty chilonde (Bulos) and charity nyirongo (Mo creation), they are both always ready to give advice to upcoming designers. Betty has a passion to empower youths and trains those with interest and she has an incubator for fashion and designing, Charity also teaches designing to individuals who have interest but I also love her pieces they are always so original. Both designers have travelled around the continent and have done Zambia proud putting its fashion on the map. Internationally, I am inspired by the queen of punk designs, Vivienne Westwood, she was one of the first designers to showcase more than 2 collections in a year and still does. She has changed how people look at fashion, creating many trends, she plays around with so many colours and fabrics to make a collection and yet people from different backgrounds still find a sense of style in her creations. Above all she’s been designing for more than 35 years.
KAPA KAUMBA: Your collection at this year’s Zambia Fashion week got a great response from the audience. What was the theme of the collection?
Mweene Kalipinde: My collection is called “Desert Rose” it was inspired by the biblical story of Joseph and his coat of many colours. It’s a collection that tells a story of greatness, it doesn’t matter where you are just like Joseph who was sold to be a slave, and he ended up being a minister in a foreign land.
Seafolly are searching for their next model and it could be you
The next Gigi Hadid?
If models Gigi Hadid, Shanina Shaik and Jess Hart sound like company you’d like to keep, this latest news might just be for you.
Australian swim label Seafolly (you may have heard of them) are looking for a model to front their next campaign, meaning the likes of Hadid, Shaik and Heart might be closer than you think.
Looking for a “woman beyond a model, someone who personifies the Seafolly spirit and embraces the quintessential Australian beach lifestyle,” the search will be conducted on Instagram. In other words, it could be you.
Finalists will be announced every Friday in December (winning a $500 gift card in the meantime) with the winner appearing in an exclusive Seafolly shoot, receiving a Seafolly wardrobe valued at $5,000, plus a whole host of invitations to “exclusive events”.
Sound like something you’d be interested in? To enter, make sure you’re wearing the latest season of Seafolly, upload a photo of yourself wearing it in your favourite “summer spot”, tag @SeafollyAustralia, and hashtag #FacesOfSeafolly. Voila!
The winner will be announced on New Year’s Day in 2018 via Instagram.
Models including Miranda Kerr, Pia Miller and Jess Hart have been discovered through competitions, launching long and fruitful careers — proving you’ve got to be in it to win it.
Model in the making? Line up your photographer, stat.
6 TIPS FOR SHOPPING PRE-LOVED LUXURY FASHION LIKE A PROLong gone are the days where vintage shopping simply meant rummaging through flea-markets and stalking eBay listings. While you can still come across the odd sartorial gem via the old-school browsing method, buying pre-owned fashion has become a far more direct shopping experience.
Thanks to the new breed of recently launched fashion resale sites, finding that dream vintage Chanel bag—and being able to afford it—has become a much easier feat.
Here, the BAZAAR guide to shopping pre-loved luxury in 2017:1. SHOP WITH YOUR WARDROBE IN MINDKeep your existing wardrobe in mind when shopping vintage and pre-loved fashion. It's easy to buy on impulse after stumbling across a one-of-kind find, but always consider how you'd style a piece, and when you'd wear it, before purchasing. Never buy something simply because of the label. Make a vintage design your own by mixing it with new-season pieces.
Bare-faced chic: the noisy nudes
Here’s the beauty equivalent of the camel coat, make-up that looks understated but unapologetically posh. Try apricot and peaches-and-cream shades on the eyes, with what we’ll call “noisy nudes” on the cheeks and lips. It’s a look for cosy cashmere evenings by the fire, or swanky well-lit bars. A decent powder can be transformative, catapulting you from slightly exhausted mum to vivacious lady, one who can afford to dry clean her extensive knitwear collection.
Get the look
Ciaté Glow-To Highlighter in Celestial £26 ciate london.com
Trish McEvoy Eye Base Essentials £31 harvey nichols.com
Asos Eyeshadow Palette in Devoted £12 asos.com
YSL Rouge Pur Couture in Coral Remix £28 yslbeauty.co.uk
Bare Minerals Barepro Liquid Foundation £29 lookfantastic.com
Tom Ford Private Shadow in Naked City £29 tomford.com
Lola Make-Up Eyeshadow Palette in 001 £19.95 lolamakeup.com
MAC in Peach £14.85 johnlewis.com
Now’s the time to…
Appreciate the everyday. Anya Hindmarch has developed a fragrance collection with perfumer Lyn Harris, comprising candles that smell of sun lotion, coffee and baby powder